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i'm chris duke and today on motorz we're installing a big brake kit on our mustang. we recently installed a supercharger on our mustang gt that bumped it up to 447 horsepower at the wheels. now with all that additional horsepower, we need more stopping power because it doesn't matter how fast you go if you can't stop the thing. so today on motorz, we're going to show you how to upgrade the front brake system on our mustang gt with big brake upgrade kit that includes larger diameter 14 inch rotors stainless steel brake lines, and huge six-piston calipers. then the rear is going to get the rata speed plus rotor conversion kit and then when we're all done with that, we'll show
you how to change the front brake pads on a 2004 honda pilot and then demonstrate the use of a vaccuum type bleeder on our f150. let's get started on our mustang. most of the time when you're working on your brakes you want to make sure you remove or loosen the cap on your brake fluid resevoir. that's going to allow that fluid to move around while you're working on your brake system. and you want to make sure you have a brand new unopened bottle of brake fluid. our mustang requires dot 3. you should check with your owner's manual to see what kind of fluid your vehicle requires. for this installation, you're going to need various ratchets, sockets, and extensions, as well as a 10 millimeter allen head socket. flat blade screwdriver, some zip ties, a wire brush, various wrenches, some locktite a new bottle brake fluid, lots of rags, some safety glasses, brake clean, some water in a spray
bottle, a torque wrench, a breaker bar, and you're gonna also need a brake bleed kit. we'll be right back after this break with more motorz. we're gonna start by installing the baer pro-plus brake upgrade kit in the front so after you jack up your vehicle and put it on stands, the first thing you're gonna want to do is disconnect the brake line from here because you're gonna install new brake callipers and lines. you can use the provided cap to prevent the brake fluid from leaking out. then once you've done that you can disconnect the brake caliper, the bracket and the rotor. use the 13 millimeter wrench to break this fitting free from the brake line. it's gonna make it a lot easier to disconnect that later, after you've removed the bracket with a 10 millimeter socket. to clean up that brake fluid that ends up everywhere, a good thing to have handy
is some towels and some water. use a 10 millimeter socket to remove this brake line bracket bolt. detach the speed sensor cable which is being held on to the brake line using these two clips right here. one there and one down here at the bottom, then you can move that brake line out of the way. to remove the caliper from the bracket, you need to break loose the two bolts. there's one at the top and one at the bottom. for that you're gonna need a 12 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. with those two bolts removed, you can pull your caliper out.
use a 15 millimeter socket to break the two bolts free on the back here so you can remove the calliper bracket. since we'll be re-using our factory caliper bracket bolts, clean them up using a wire brush. install the new caliper bracket from baer using the factory bracket bolts, just make sure you put a little bit of locktite on them first. and then torque them down to 85 foot pounds. as you can see, the new rotor from baer is considerably larger giving us more surface area for more stopping power. installing your new rotors is pretty easy, just make sure you put them on the side, the one that's marked with an "l" goes on the left and the one marked with an "r" goes on the right. now to keep the rotor in place, use two lug nuts with the provided washer. this will help prevent damage
to the rotor, as well as keeping it in place, making it a lot easier to install the new caliper. now before you put on your new calipers, make sure your rotor's good and clean both on the front and the back, so put on some safety glasses and grab some brake clean and spray it off. with your rotors all cleaned up, you can go ahead and install your new 6-piston callipers from baer. use the provided 10-mm allen head bolts and then torque them down to 85 foot pounds. to install the new stell braided brake line, you're gonna need a flat blade screwdriver, a 13-mm and 17-mm wrench, as well as a 10-mm socket and a ratchet to reinstall those two bolts that you removed ealier. now the first thing you're gonna want to install is the new bracket in the factory location
there's one for the left side and there's one for the right. then to connect that brake line to your calliper, you're gonna need to use the provided banded bolt and these two washers. use a flat blade screwdriver to remove this plug on the back side of the callipers so that you can connect the brake line. tighten the banjo bolt using a 9/16th wrench. once you've installed the new brake line, you wanna secure the speed sensor line, using a couple of zip ties. to bleed the brakes using a traditional method, use the supplied hose and hook it up to the bleeder. then use a wrench and open it up about a quarter of a turn to let some of the air bubbles out. then close it back up.
have someone inside the vehicle pump the peddle a few times. then, open up the bleeder valve again to let some more out, repeat the process until all the air bubbles are out of the line. on the rear of our mustang, we're installing the baer brakes arada speed plus 2 upgrade system which increases the size of our rotor by 2 inches. that's gonna give us more stopping power. now this kit comes with a relocation bracket for our caliper, and two additional bolts. now first we need to do is we need to disconnect our caliper. we're gonna to use a 13-mm socket for that. and a 15-mm will remove these bolts for the bracket. pop our old rotor off and compare it to the baer brake one and as you can see, there is a sizeable difference. install the relocation bracket provided with the kit,
and these 19-mm bolts, and then torque it down to 85 foot pounds. prior to installing your new rotors, clean them with some brake cleaner even if you don't think that they need it. now to some, this rotor may look like it's on backwards, but i assure you, it's going in the right direction with these slots facing forward. now reinstall your calliper bracket, using the factory bolts and some locktite. now that we've snugged these botls up, we're gonna tighten them down to the manufacturer's recommended spec. before reinstalling the brake caliper, you wanna compress your piston using a disc brake piston tool on a 3/8ths drive ratchet. just like with the caliper bracket, torque your caliper bolts down to the manufacturer's recommended specs
and repeat on the other side. we're done installing the baer pro plus kit on our mustang. now if you're considering installing a big brake kit on your ride, you need to check something out, you need to make sure that your wheel has clearance for the caliper. now baer makes it real easy by providing a template that you can download and print out at their website. now if you don't have enough front spacing, they provide these wheel spacers that will give you the room that you need. as part of your regular vehicle maintenance plan, you should inspect your brake pads, your rotors, and the rest of your brake components. now we've got our 2004 honda pilot in the shop today that is in bad need of some new brake pads. now whenever you replace your brake pads, you should also replace
or have your rotors turned. now the tools that you're gonna need are a 12-mm and a 17-mm socket, as well as a ratchet, some brake clean, some old rags, some safety glasses, and a c clamp or a brake caliper piston tool. now we're gonna start by taking our 12-mm socket and removing our brake caliper. now before removing any of the brake components, you need to remove the cap from the brake fluid resevoire to allow pressure to release while compressing the caliper pistons. remove the two bolts - you've got one right here on the bottom and one on the top - with your 12-mm ratchet. using your 17-mm socket, remove these two bolts on the backside of the brake caliper bracket.
now in our honda, we've got these two factory retraining screws that are holding this rotor on. now you can try removing them with a phillip's head screwdriver such as this one, but they're on there real good, so we're gonna use our makita electric impact, pop these guys on out. then remove the rotor. to replace your old brake pads, just slide them out and snap in the new ones. and it looks like we got to this one just in time. as you can see, there's almost nothing left on the old ones, and check out how thick the new ones are. inspect all your brake lines for damage, cracking, or swelling, and replace if necessary. on the back of the caliper, check the banjo fitting as well as the bleeding to make sure there's no signs of leakage. inspect the piston and the piston seal for any signs of cracking and leakage, and replace
any parts as necessary. use a brake piston compression tool or a large c clamp like the one we're using here to compress your piston all the way back. now if you're using a c clamp like we are, grab one of your old brake pads and use that to create an even compression surface. use an old rag to clean any loose debris off the surface of the piston. before reinstalling your rotors, give them a good cleaning on both the front and the back with some brake clean to get rid of any grease or debris. remember when reinstalling your rotors, align those holes for retainer screws. reinstall your caliper bracket with your pads using the 17-mm bolts that go right in there.
snug them down, and then torque them down to the manufacturer's specified recommendation. and then finally, reinstall the caliper, then put your wheel back on, and then repeat the process on the other side. after finishing your brake repair on both sides of your vehicle, put that cap back on you brake fluid resevoir, hop into your car, and pump that brake pedal a few times. that's gonna seat those brake pads against your rotors. then for the first 500 miles, just take it real easy, and after 20 miles you wanna retorque those lug nuts. check out the motorz.tv website to watch all of your favorite episodes and more. talk with other viewers online in our popular forums area. catch the latest news and information
surrounding the show, as well as the entire automotive industry. take motorz with you on the road with our free app available for the iphone and ipod touch. and win free parts by entering in our monthly giveaway. it's all right here at www.motorz.tv. hey, welcome back to motorz. now ealier in this episode, we showed you how to bleed the brakes in our mustang, using a traditional method that required two people. but if you're on your own, you might wanna pick up a brake bleeding kit like this craftsman one available from the sears blue tool crew. it comes with everything you need to do it on your own. except for a brand new bottle of brake fluid. just be sure to check your owner's manual or look at the cap on your brake fluid resevoir to determine the grade of fluid that you need. for f150, dot 3 is what we need.
now before you get started, if you have abs, check the repair manual, as some vehicles have special procedures for bleeding your brakes. now let's get our f150 jacked up in the air, get our wheel off, and get started. now don't forget to pop that cap off your brake fluid resevoir. each wheel has its own bleeder valve. on our f150, they're located right here on the back side of the caliper right behind this cap. on your vehicle it may differ. now the order in which you wanna bleed your brakes for vehicles that have the master cylinder on the left hand side is starting with the bleeder that's furthest away, which is the right rear, then going to the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. first remove the cap, then connect your tubing, and then using a 10-mm wrench, turn the bleeder about a quarter of a turn, or until you start
seeing some fluid come out. start pumping away until you no longer see large bubbles of air in the tubing, at which point you can tighten the bleeder back up, then remove the tubing and put your cap back on, clean up, and then move on to the next wheel. partz is brought to you by the sears blue tool crew. now here's the age old question. what do you get a guy that's got everything - whether it's his birthday, the holidays, or father's day, or whenever. well i can guarantee you that he doesn't have these gold hand tools from craftsman. now this thin profile ratchet is fully functional, has a gold titanium finish, and comes in a deluxe walnut case. now this 7 piece 3/8ths drive socket set is 22 karet gold plated, and each one of them is stamped with a different vintage craftsman
logo representing the year that the logo was introduced, starting with 1927 all the way up to 1997. now each one of these walnut cases has its own serial number and has the craftsman logo etched right on to the top, so it looks great on your desk, whether it's open or closed. now should you use them and they ever fail or the chrome plating comes off, just take them to your local sears store, and they'll replace it with a chrome-plated version, absolutely free. now you can find more information about these, or buy them online at sears.com/tools. now we've lifted and lowered quite a few vehicles here on motorz, but what if you've got a late model gm full size suv that needs to be lowered. now lowering not only improves the vehicle's appearance by giving it a more agressive stance, but also gives your truck or suv a more sporty feel by tightening the suspension
and lowering the center of gravity, virtually eliminating unwanted body roll through the corners. now if you don't wanna fool around with mixing and matching various suspension parts from different suspension companies, you should definitely check out this djm 3-4 drop kit for the 2007-2010 chevy avalanche, tahoe, suburban, and gmc yucon, which retails for about $750 bucks. this is a complete kit, and includes everything you need to drop your vehicle 3" in the front, and 4 in the back. this includes front upper and lower control arms, a set of lowering springs in the rear, coupled with lower shock extenders, trailing arm brackets, and new sway bar links. with this djm kit, we included their their calmack shock absorbers, designed specifically for trucks and suvs. now for more information on djm suspension products, check out your local performance shop, or visit
our website for a link. if you've ever done of heavy braking, and had your brakes get so hot, that they start to fade, then you might be ready for agent 47's brake cooling kit. using scoops and ducting as a proven way to help improve braking performance at the track and on those winding roads. this mustang s197 kit includes everything you need for the installation, including a splitter and funnel-type scoop, ducting, mount and all the hardware that you need. to make the installation even easier you can get agent 47's lower grill. the lower grill replaces your fake scoops with fully functional scoops, giving your front end an aggressive and purposeful look. the lower grill can be installed in minutes in the factory location.
use their duct kit for a complete and easy brake performance upgrade. now their upper grill for the s197 is a true custom grill. the driving lights are spread an extra two inches apart and has a larger funnelled vertical opening as well. this gives you much higher air flow for better cooling. the metal mesh grill back is recessed into the radiator opening, giving your pony the proper mustang profile with that signature hood overhang. the grill assembly clips into the factory mounting holes and the factory gt fog lights fit right in. for more information on this kit visit our website's partz section. letterz, brought to you by e3 spark plugs born to burn. hey guys, welcome to letterz. now we get so many letterz every single day from you guys
unfortunately we can't answer them all. so here's what we did to help you out. we created this new service on our website called motorz answers where you can go to ask your questions. or you can help answer somebody elses question if you happen to know the answer and everybody benefits. so i invite you go check it out at mororz.tv/answers. now our first letter for today comes from dillon. he asks, when are you going to put on the aftermarket transmission cover from the gear swap episode? well coming up here, season 4 episode 11 we have a fluids episode where we're going to show you how to change the transmission pan as well the transmission fluid and the filter and everything else. so check that out for the step by step. now brandon lemon writes, hey chris, i've got a 2008 f-150 with black exterior door handles and i want to color match them
to my truck. what's the easiest way to do this? p.s. love the show. well brandon this happens all the time. a lot of people take off their door handles, they sand them down, they paint them. here's the problem those door handles get pulled on all the time. the plastic stretches and twists over time it's just going to crack and peel off and you're going to have to do it again. so the best way to do it is to go down to your dealership and get color matched door handles or go to a junkyard and see if you can find a wrecked handle that has the color door handles that matches your vehicle. now jeff, all the way up in alberta, canada writes. chris i just put e3 spark plugs in my 2000 f-150 with a 2-valve 5.4l. it sounds much better and runs like a new truck! i noticed big improvements in my throttle response. it was your show's recommendation
that made me make the choice for the e3 plugs, now when are you going to put some comp cams in your f-150? i need you to do a video on that so i can see how to do it myself. get on it bud! p.s. love that gladiator box! the top chest looks like it has so much storage. is that a 41 or 52 inch? well jeff that's a 52 inch gladiator and it holds a ton of tools. in fact there's a couple drawers that are still empty so we can fill them up with some more tools from the sears blue tool crew. now as far as ripping apart our f-150 and working on that engine we're not planning on doing that anytime soon. but we are doing an engine rebuild series this next season so make sure you check that out because it will probably give you some insight on your engine. now as far as your e3 spark plugs... guess what? you and everybody else that had their letter answered on their show today gets a free set
of e3 spark plugs which are born to burn with their diamond fire technology. now to learn more information about their technology or to find out if they make them for your vehicle just head on over to www.e3sparkplugs.com wheter you're replacing your pads and rotors or installing one of these upgrade kits from baer brakes, or just bleeding your brakes, all you need is some basic hand tools and a little bit of time. now for more information on the products and all the tools we used from the sears blue tool crew just head on over to our website. we'll catch you next week on motorz!
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